Good questions.
Useful answers.

We service and install domestic and small irrigation well water systems, including submersible and above-ground pump systems. Call with your system details if you are unsure whether it is a fit.

Call or text with the problem, service address, and pump HP, if known. Photos of the equipment and labels are welcome. We will discuss what is needed to assess the work. For a new installation or planned project, we can discuss a bid.

Find our contact information.

• The service address and best callback number
• Whether you have no water, low pressure, cycling, or another problem
• Pump horsepower (HP), if known, so we can bring suitable equipment
• Any controller fault code, pump information, or recent changes

Text a photo of the whole setup and any accessible HP or model label. If a label only lists a controller model or a range of supported HP, send the photo and we can help identify it. Keep electrical covers in place.

We accept cash, checks, and credit/debit cards. Ask us about payment arrangements and the applicable price before the work begins.

Find our rates

Our work focuses on the pump and well water system. A well driller handles drilling the well itself. If you are planning a new system, we can discuss how the pump installation fits into the project. We can also recommend drillers in our area for you.

Frequent starting and stopping is called cycling. On a conventional system, some cycling is normal as pressure rises and falls, but very short or unusually frequent cycles (less than 30 seconds) can point to a pressure tank, leak, control, or water-demand issue.

Note whether it happens while using water or after all water use has stopped. That distinction helps narrow down the next checks.

First notice whether the problem affects one fixture or the whole property. A single fixture can have a local restriction; a whole-system problem needs a different assessment. Filters, water demand, leaks, controls, and the well or pump can all be involved.

Start with the low-pressure guide.

Irrigation adds demand. If it uses more water than the system or well can supply, household pressure can fall. The sprinkler type, nozzle sizes, zones, well yield, and pump capacity all matter.

There is no dependable universal number of sprinklers based on horsepower alone. Tell us which zones were running and what changed.

Check whether water is being used somewhere, including irrigation, livestock water, toilets, and visible leaks. Tell us the pump HP or send a label photo if you know where it is.

If the pump will not shut off, a pipe has burst, or the system sounds abnormal, call for help. If there is an immediate problem and you can safely operate the identified pump breaker from a dry location with its panel cover in place, turn the pump off.

Both can be appropriate. Variable-speed controls adjust pump speed to suit demand within the system’s capabilities. Conventional controls use a pressure switch and tank to start and stop the pump.

The choice depends on the well, pump, household and irrigation demand, existing equipment, installation cost, and service considerations. We generally tell people if you can match your irrigation to your pump output conventional controls make more sense. If you have inconsistent irrigation demand or have multiple houses on one well variable-speed controls make more sense. We can discuss the options for your system.

For many conventional bladder or diaphragm tank systems, the manufacturer specifies air precharge 2 PSI below the pump’s cut-in pressure. For example, 38 PSI applies to a 40/60 system; it is not the right setting for every system.

Precharge is checked with the pump power off and the water pressure fully relieved, following the tank manufacturer’s instructions. Variable-speed systems can have different requirements. If the air pressure is read while the system is pressurized you will read the water pressure not the tank precharge. If you are unsure of your settings or tank condition, call us.

Read Flexcon’s precharge guidance.

No. Galvanized air-over-water tanks and bladder/diaphragm tanks manage their air cushion differently. Identify the tank type before adjusting anything. If you are unsure, send us a photo of the tank and accessible labels.

Pay attention to changes in pressure, frequent cycling, leaks, and controller messages. Maintain the tank according to its manufacturer’s guidance, protect exposed equipment from freezing, and match irrigation demand to the system’s capacity. In simple terms, if the pump runs steady with your irrigation and is not cycling, the pump will last much longer than normal.

The right operating pattern depends on whether the system is conventional or variable-speed. Talk to us if you are seeing repeated short cycles.

Protect exposed water lines and equipment and make sure to winterize your sprinklers. Make sure heat is turned on in your pumphouse and set the thermostat to 40 degrees. Put another thermometer near the floor by the plumbing and make sure it is at least above 40 degrees. We recommend fan-less radiator heaters to keep the pumphouse from freezing. Heat lamps are not a suitable heat source. Insulation without heat is also not a heat source and will freeze.

If a line may be frozen, call for advice. Avoid open-flame thawing and do not handle wet electrical equipment.

You can read accessible labels, note controller messages, and observe a closed breaker panel from a dry location. Opening control boxes or electrical panels, manipulating switch contacts, and testing exposed wiring should be left to a qualified person.

A meter reading must be interpreted for the particular motor, cable, and controls. A single resistance range is not a universal pump test.

Record the exact code and controller model. Our controller fault lookup explains listed codes and suitable first steps. You can also text us photos of the code and model label. Avoid repeatedly clearing a fault or resetting a tripping breaker.